Once upon a time, there were Three Little Pigs. Their names
were Fat, Sugar, and Salt. It is gospel in the foodie world that a dish cannot taste
good unless it contains at least one, and preferably two, of these sacred ingredients.
Whether it’s creamy and sweet or salty and crispy, to be considered “good
food,” a meal must comply with this edict. This puts the average person in
quite a bind because if they want to eat for health, which has been defined as
limiting the amount of fat, sugar and salt in their diet, then what follows
logically is that they are doomed to a lifetime of bland and unappetizing eating.
The food industry, trying to sell all things to all people, has
responded to this dilemma by creating “fat-free,” “sugar-free,” and “low
sodium” versions of all of our guilty favorites. And so, tragedy leads to
atrocity – I once bought a tub of fat-free cream cheese. I don’t know if you’ve
ever eaten fat-free cream cheese, but it’s pretty vile. The dirty little secret,
don’t ya know, about the “fat-free” label is this: because food manufacturers
live and die by the story of the Three Little Pigs, any product labeled “fat-free”
will probably be loaded with sugar and salt. It’s a similar sad tale for
“sugar-free” and “low-sodium” foods.
If this seems an impossible quandary, it is only so if you
buy into the gospel of the Three Little Pigs. After all, who says you need fat,
sugar and salt in order for food to taste good? In a way, these three amigos
are like the most addictive of drugs. I read once that the reason crack is so habit-forming
is because it creates an artificial high that can’t be replicated by anything in
the natural world; I would argue that refined sugar is not so different. Just
imagine trying to appreciate the subtly awesome sweetness of a perfectly ripe peach
after you’ve just eaten a piece of peach cobbler slathered in whipped cream and
laden with high fructose corn syrup?
What’s even worse is that if you buy into the tenets of the Three
Little Pigs, then after you eat that exquisite peach, you will not feel
satisfied and happy about the wonderful bounty nature has provided for you. Instead, you will feel deprived because you couldn’t
eat the peach cobbler, which the food culture anoints as one of the “good
foods.” That feeling of deprivation leads to temptation, and then to desperation,
and before you know it, you find yourself waking up in the morning, groggy and unable
to remember the previous night yet surrounded by empty tubs of Cherry Garcia
ice cream.
So what’s a girl to do?
The food culture will tell you that you can eat these fatty,
sugary, salty foods as long as you are careful to consume them in moderation
(stay tuned for a future post on the myth of moderation). You can also find
some crutches, things like zero-calorie sweeteners, to help satisfy your taste
buds without a caloric overload. In my experience, those things work in a
pinch, but they’re not long term solutions because they leave the root of the belief
untouched, that fat, sugar and salt are necessary for “good food,” and also, they
keep you addicted to the rush of their super-saturated über-flavors.
It’s not easy, but you can free yourself from the tyranny of
the Pigs. Give your taste buds a break sometime. Think of it as detox. Once you’ve
cleansed yourself of the Three Little Pigs, you’ll start to notice some strange
things. Like just how good a perfectly
ripe peach can really be.
I love this, Sandy. Low-fat food is a particular interest. As you noted, it's a real education to find out that fat-free often means the carbs have been boosted. Perhaps ironically, low-fat is generally more healthy than no-fat.
ReplyDeleteI see great things ahead for your blog!
Ben
Thanks Ben! And congratulations on being my first commenter!
ReplyDeleteI'm reading this with interest. You are an inspiration to me.
ReplyDeleteLisa, thanks so much! I hope my thoughts here will continue to interest and inspire you!
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